2005 Movia Ribolla Gialla, Brda

06152009This bottle comes from a winery which has been in one family’s hands – the Kristancic family – since 1820. Its estate straddles the Italian and Slovenian appellations of Collio (in Italy) and Brda (in Slovenia). 20 acres are on the Italian side and 18 acres on the Slovenian side (thanks to Alder over at Vinography.com for digging up these facts).

When I was in Italy last year, I had the luck to taste some truly unique wines from the Friuli area, which is near this wine’s home. This little beauty brings back some great wine memories and reminds me of how unique some of the flavours of the area were.

The Movia winery is now run by Ales Kristancic who Decanter Magazine described as having “the creativity of Andre Ostertag, the energy of Angelo Gaja and the dedication of Willi Brundlemayer plus inherited flair and determination.” That’s some pretty heady company.

He’s been using full biodynamic production for the last 20 years and you can taste the character and care in the glass from the indigenous Ribolla Gialla grape. This is wine with a sense of place.

It’s a wine geek’s wine. It’s pretty much unlike anything else out there and is drop-dead sexy. The nose is totally unique. It’s got light melon, mineral and vanilla spice going on… among other things. The flavours struck me as honey-buttered popcorn with a melon drizzle… and it’s tastier than that simplified description sounds. It finishes with an elegant crispness that shows this wine could age for a while.

~$40 at Kitsilano Wine Cellars here in Vancouver.

4 1/2 stars